Cooling faults do more engine damage per incident than almost anything else on a vehicle, and the parts involved are comparatively inexpensive. The catch is that a radiator is easy to specify wrongly, because two vehicles with the same badge can have different cores depending on transmission and air-conditioning fitment. This section of the catalogue holds 37 cooling system listings covering Radiator across 9 vehicle brands.
Browse 50 Cooling System listings
The cooling system holds the engine within a narrow temperature band: hot enough to run efficiently and burn off condensation, cool enough that the oil film survives and the head does not distort. The radiator is the main heat exchanger in that circuit. On automatics it frequently doubles as a transmission oil cooler, and on hybrid and battery-electric vehicles there are additional low-temperature circuits handling power electronics and battery conditioning.
Radiator part numbers are driven by core dimensions, the position and diameter of the inlet and outlet necks, and whether the unit includes an integral transmission oil cooler. Manual and automatic versions of the same model therefore usually take different radiators, and air-conditioned cars often use a thicker core. Material matters as well: almost all current radiators are aluminium cores with crimped plastic end tanks, and that crimp seam is where they eventually fail. Coolant choice is not a detail — mixing incompatible coolant technologies, or topping up with plain water, promotes electrolysis and internal scaling that will destroy an aluminium core from the inside regardless of how well it was made.
The radiator transfers heat from engine coolant to passing air. Most modern units use an aluminium tube-and-fin core with moulded plastic end tanks crimped on over a gasket. Vehicles with automatic transmissions often have a transmission oil cooler built into one tank, and hybrids and battery-electric vehicles carry additional low-temperature circuits for power electronics and battery conditioning.
The plastic-to-aluminium crimp seam is the usual failure point: heat cycling embrittles the plastic until the tank cracks or the gasket takes a set. Cores also block internally with scale and casting debris when coolant is not changed, and externally with dirt and insects. Using the wrong coolant, or mixing types, promotes electrolysis that eats the aluminium from the inside.
Give core width, height and thickness, the position and diameter of the inlet and outlet necks, whether there is an integral transmission oil cooler, and whether the vehicle is manual or automatic and has air conditioning. All four change the part number.
A few minutes of inspection prevents most wrong-part returns in this category.
An OEM number is the vehicle manufacturer's own part number for a component. It is normally printed, stamped or moulded onto the original part, or onto a label attached to it. Aftermarket manufacturers publish cross-references linking their own catalogue numbers to those OEM numbers, and that cross-reference is what makes an order verifiable rather than an educated guess.
Cross-referencing matters because a single model line rarely uses a single part. Over a production run a manufacturer will change suppliers, revise a design mid-life, fit larger brakes to a heavier or higher-output variant, and build market-specific versions with different lighting, sensors and emissions equipment. Two vehicles that look identical in a showroom photograph can therefore take different parts. The model name narrows the search; the OEM number closes it.
Jump straight to the cooling system listings for a specific vehicle. Each model page also carries the sourcing notes for that vehicle.
Every category page covers what the components do, how they fail and what has to be specified when ordering.
Usually not. Automatic transmissions are commonly cooled by a heat exchanger built into one of the radiator end tanks, which adds two extra fittings and changes the part entirely. Always state the transmission type when asking for a radiator.
Not reliably. The crimped joint between an aluminium core and a plastic tank is not a serviceable seal, and epoxy repairs on a pressurised, heat-cycled component fail quickly. Replace the radiator.
It might be, but that symptom is equally consistent with a failed cooling fan, a fan relay or control module fault, or a blocked radiator face. At road speed there is enough ram air to mask a fan failure. Confirm the fan runs before condemning the radiator.
Yes. Coolant technologies use different corrosion inhibitor packages, and mixing them can drop the inhibitors out of suspension and leave you with a system full of gel. Topping up with plain water dilutes the inhibitor and lets electrolysis attack the aluminium core. Use the specification the manufacturer calls for.
VIN, model year, engine variant, transmission type, and whether the vehicle has air conditioning. Core width, height and thickness measured from the old unit, plus the inlet and outlet positions, will confirm the match.